![]() How much your vehicle can stop (vehicle, payload and trailer). How much your vehicle can pull, accelerate with and go up hills with without burning out the transmission, blowing the motor, tearing up your unibody/frame or jackknifing on turns.Ģ. Obviously your towing capacity is related the following two factors:ġ. I know this is an older thread, but having had to research it some for my own vehicle, I feel there is info to contribute. Especially when head wind and hills need to be battled at the same time. Towing within city limits at 30 mph is much easier then towing at 60 mph hiways speeds. Lower rear axle gearing does help reduce towing stress (like using the 373 or 411 gearing - instead of factory 342 gearing) but it also depends on hills, wind drag and one's hiways speeds. More people & more cargo inside the van, less attached "trailer weight" that should be pulled. When adding weight inside the Safari/Astro van, do remember to subtract its loaded weight from Maximum Towing trailer weight as well. More towing stress = one's lower "comfortable" towing ability. Same "wind wall" resistance added stress holds true when comparing the "towablility feeling / towing stress" of a flat landscape / utility trailer against a Travel Trailer (of equial loaded weight) as well. Hold the same plywood vertical like a boat's sail and one instantly feels the wind drag. Flat edge plywood and there's NO wind resistance. Vision driving down the hiway at 50 mph and holding a sheet of plywood out the sun roof. Very easy compared to a "wind wall" Travel trailer of equal loaded weight. A loaded 5,000 lbs utility trailer nicely tucked behind a Safari / Astro van pulls very easy. When pulling a trailer, always keep the above in mind a well. Doesn't like strong "head wind" and it doesn't like "up hills" And it doesn't like up hills with head wind at the same time. Without hestiation.Īnother thing to "always" keep in mind that factory V6 4.3L engine with factory transmission and factory 3.43 rear axle does NOT like wind. If wondering, I installed the above items in my preivous 2003 Safari van and towed "loaded" 5,000 lbs Travel Trailer. Thus, allowing higher engines revs - which is less strain on its tranny and rear end. Note: When towing (especially the heavy loads), always use "D" (3rd) gear. Especially for heavy trailer / cargo towing. ![]() Thus, getting much "tigher feeling" around the sharp corners. ![]() If you do lots of towing, suggest replacing the over soft "P" tires with stiffer sidewall LT tires. Thus, why any connected trailer above 1,500 lbs needs its own brakes. Factory brakes on van are only rated to "safely stop" an additional 1,200 lbs. Ensure Trailer has full electric brakes. Onboard Electric Brake Controller Husky EXCURSION re: I loved the Timbrens SES units - even for normal "soccer parent" driving conditions. Especially when van is loaded down with rear cargo and/or lots of passengers. To me, Timbren SES units remove the van's "factory mush" rear suspension. Ensure trailer has WD system attached (and properly adjusted) as well. A Hitch that will accept Weight Distribution System. LPD design that is rated for up to 5,000 lbs. As a suggestion, install your own 3rd party towing upgrade items. As a suggestion, do NOT waste your money on factory "towing package".
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |